The Anthurium Pedatoradiatum, or Anthurium Fingers as some may call it, is a tropical evergreen native to South Mexico bearing deeply-lobed leaves.
When mature, leaves may have as many as 13 “fingers”!! Juvenile leaves emerge roughly heart-shaped before developing deeper lobes. The plant grows to just 3.3 feet (1 meter) tall when kept indoors.
Caring for this hardy plant is easy. It enjoys a well-draining chunky potting mix, and bright indirect light (or partial shade if growing outdoors).
Avoid browning leaf tips by providing sufficient water and humidity (ideally >60%). But be careful not to overwater.
Read on for all the details on how to keep your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum thriving!
Caring for your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum
If you’re keeping your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum indoors, choose a bright spot that receives ample indirect light. Any direct light should be limited to just an hour or two a day — too much and the leaves will burn.
For this reason, North and East-facing windows are ideal for growth. West and South windows are fine too, if you place your Anthurium about 5 feet (1.5 meters) away from the windowpane to reduce light intensity.
Ours is propped next to an East-facing window and loves it. 🙂
When kept outdoors, opt for a spot with 75-80% shade.
When it comes to watering your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum, there are 2 important things to note:
- Make sure the top 2 inches (5cm) of soil is fully dry before giving your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum a good soak.
- Check the soil moisture regularly. Don’t let the entire soil dry through its pot…. just the top 2 inches.
These 2 Rules ensure that your epiphyte gets the water it needs.
At the same time, observe your plant for “feedback”. Leaves will start to curl and brown if your plant is underwatered. On the other hand, yellow leaves and droopy stems indicate your plant may be overwatered.
Your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum tolerates average room humidities but flourishes in higher (>60%) humidity levels. Too-low humidity results in browning leaf tips.
Though a popular practice, we don’t recommend misting your plant as wet leaves increase the risk of developing Anthurium Blight (see troubleshooting section for more details).
Instead, prop your plant on top of a pebble tray and half-fill the tray with water. The evaporating water increases the humidity levels around your plant.
Of course, the most convenient way to increase humidity is simply to use a humidifier.
Your plant does well in mild climates. Anything between 65-80 degrees F (18 – 27 degrees C) is ideal.
They are not cold-hardy. Temperature fluctuations, cold chills, or being located near air vents or drafts can cause dropping leaves.
Blooming happens throughout the year but is rare when your Pedatoradiatum is kept indoors. Inflorescences consist of a thin purple spadix and a green spathe.
Your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum grows up to 3.3 feet (1 meter) tall, making it perfect for indoor spaces.
They grow at a moderate rate under ideal conditions, and can continue to do so through colder months when many other plants go dormant. Juvenile leaves emerge heart-shaped, before developing long, finger-like lobes.
When mature, there can be as many as 13 “fingers” on each leaf, creating a tropical vibe. 🙂
Soil or Growing Medium
Anthurium Pedatoradiatum does best in a potting mix that has good airflow to the roots, and holds some water, but also drains excess water quickly.
Also choose a potting mix that has some organic nutrients.
We like using this mix, which ticks all the boxes:
- 2 parts moisture control potting mix (peat-based)
- 1 part orchid bark
- 1 part perlite
- 1 part horticultural charcoal
- 1 part worm casting
- Protects against over- and under-watering
- Organic Charcoal helps improve soil drainage
In our experience, fertilizing works wonders in Anthurium Pedatoradiatums. They grow much faster and lusher with the right application.
There are 2 general options for fertilizing.
- #1: Coated, time-release granule fertilizers like Osmocote, or
- #2: Gentle liquid fertilizer incorporated into water.
Anthurium roots are sensitive to uncoated quick-release fertilizers, so avoid choosing that. Overfertilizing, or using cheap, harsh fertilizers can result in leaf burn.
If you’re using the liquid fertilizer option, fertilize once a month during the active growing months.
This is a species that may continue to grow strongly through the colder months. If this is the case, continue to feed it monthly. However, if it stops growing for a period, stop fertilizing.
Your Anthurium Pedatoradianum likes being a little snug in its pot. They can grow well in their original pot for years, so there’s no need to rush to repot.
Repotting causes stress, so if your plant is happy where it is, don’t repot right away. Only when you see little roots poking out of the drainage hole should you consider repotting.
- Water your Anthurium the day before repotting. This reduces transplant shock and helps the plant more easily dislodge from its pot.
- Choose a planter about 2 inches (5cm) larger than the original, and one with drainage holes.
- Avoid re-using old soil in the new pot, as nutrients deplete over time.
- After repotting, your Anthurium may take a couple of weeks to recover. Be patient as it bounces back.
According to Poisonous Plants of Paradise, all parts of Anthurium plants may contain calcium oxalate crystals. These crystals are poisonous to both animals (including dogs, cats, and horses), and humans.
If you have kids or pets at home, one option is to keep your Anthurium Pedatoradiatum on a high shelf.
However, if you prefer children and animal-safe plants, check out Peperomias, Hoyas, or Calatheas.
To propagate a mature Anthurium Pedatoradiatum, you can separate the mother plant from offshoots (plantlets) that grow from its stem using a sterilized blade.
Offshoots grow spontaneously in a mature plant, so you will need to wait until your plant is well-established before propagating.
For best chances of success, propagate only in early spring.
Propagating through Plantlets (Offshoots)
- Water your plant 24 hours before propagating. This reduces the risk of transplant shock.
- Gently take the plant along with its roots out of its pot.
- Tease away the soil around the roots with your fingers. Uncover the thick stem in the middle and plantlets growing from it.
- Identify a plantlet with developed roots. Plantlets need these roots to grow on its own.
- Separate the identified plantlet from the main stem by a longitudinal cut using a sterilized knife or blade.
- Place the plantlet in a separate pot filled with fresh potting soil, and the mother plant back in its own pot.
- Ensure that the plantlet’s soil is evenly moist, and maintain high humidity levels by covering the plant with a plastic bag. The plastic bag should be removed for an hour every day to allow for fresh air. Alternatively, use a humidifier and set at 80%.
- Ensure that the plantlet is getting lots of indirect sunlight.
- In about a month, the plantlet will adapt to its new pot and form new growth on its own.
The Anthurium Pedatoradiatum is relatively resistant to pests. The most common issues arise from overwatering or Anthurium blight.
Persistent overwatering an Anthurium Pedatoradiatum can lead to root rot and plant death. Here’s some tips to prevent this:
- Water only when the top 2 inches of soil is completely dry.
- Add charcoal and orchid bark to improve drainage properties of your potting mix. Using a commercial potting mix without adding these amendments can be too dense for your Anthurium.
- Choose a pot with drainage holes, and always empty the saucer after watering.
If you’ve got an overwatered plant on your hands, check out our step-by-step guide on saving your overwatered plant.
According to the American Phytopathological Society, Anthurium Blight starts off as water-soaked legions at leaf edges. Later, infected leaves develop characteristic yellow halos on browning leaf edges.
Anthurium Blight is caused by bacteria.
Act quickly when confronted with Anthurium blight. There’s no cure, although copper-based fungicides can control its spread.
- First, prune off all infected leaves and stems. Dispose of these securely to prevent spread.
- Sterilize all your gardening tools, using a 70% isopropyl solution.
- Isolate infected plants well away from healthy plants.
- Apply a copper-based fungicide to infected plants to contain its spread. Copper is effective against the Xanthomonas bacteria (source: The University of Florida), the specific bacteria that causes blight in Anthuriums.
Since there is no cure, its far better to prevent the disease. Here are some tips:
- Sterilize gardening tools using 70% isopropyl solution before and after use.
- Ensure your plants are spaced slightly apart and have some air circulation.
- Keep your plants healthy, paying attention to watering practices and care.
- Don’t mist your Anthurium. Bacteria can spread through wet foliage. If you need to increase humidity, use a humidifier.
Frequently Asked Questions
Anthurium Pedatoradiatum vs. Pedatum
Though bearing similar long finger-like lobes, Pedatum leaves are thicker and glossier than the Pedatoradiatum.
Anthurium Pedatoradiatum Variegated
Extremely rare, the Anthurium Pedatoradiatum Variegated is a beautiful plant with white marbling on its leaves. Expect to pay tens of thousands of US dollars for a mature plant.
Similar Plants and Varieties – finger-lobed Aroids
- Anthurium Polydactylum
- Anthurium macrolobium x pedatoradiatum
Not Anthuriums, but from the same Araceaea family that have finger-like lobed leaves:
Other Anthuriums we Love
- Anthurium Superbum – Bird’s Nest plant with long leaves that fan out in a bowl shape. 🙂
- Anthurium Radicans – Beautifully textured leaves with deep grooves and “bubbles” on a compact houseplant.
- Anthurium Veitchii – the King Anthurium, a large-leafed Aroid with a deeply quilted pattern.
- Anthurium Warocqueanum – also known as the Queen Anthurium, this plant boasts dark, elongated leaves with dramatic pale veins.
- Anthurium Rugulosum – a very rare, small plant with pebbled leaves, however they are a challenge to grow.
- Anthurium Regale – a rare terrestial Anthurium with large, deeply veined leaves.
- Anthurium Andraeanum – a flowering Anthurium with bright red spathes!
The Anthurium Pedatoradiatum is a beautifully long-lobed tropical plant. To keep it happy,
- Provide it bright, indirect light indoors; 75-80% shade outdoors.
- Choose a well-draining potting mix.
- Avoid browning tips by watering well when the topsoil is dry, but don’t overwater.
- Aim for humidity >60%, though average room humidities are okay.
- Ferlitize monthly using a gentle liquid fertilizer at half strength when the plant is actively growing.
- Repot only when root-bound. They like being a little snug in its pot.
If you love the Anthurium Pedatoradiatum, check out the Philodendron Florida Ghost next!
Deborah is a plant enthusiast and founder of Gardening Collective.