The adorable Raindrop Peperomia has succulent-like leaves that resemble raindrops!
Native to South America, this tropical plant is suited to indoor temperatures and high humidity (60-90% is ideal). It grows near the forest floor, so cannot tolerate direct light. Thick leaves store water, so allow it to dry out before watering.
Let’s get into the details. We’ll show you everything you need to know to care for your Raindrop Peperomia.
Table of Contents
What is the Raindrop Peperomia?
The Raindrop Peperomia (scientific name: Peperomia Polybotrya ‘Raindrop’) is a houseplant that grows upright on thick green stems, reaching just 12-15 inches (30-38cm) when fully grown.
If you treat it right, the Raindrop Peperomia will reward you with fragrant flowers: white or green narrow spikes emerging above its lush foliage. 🙂
Caring for your Raindrop Peperomia
Light
Your plant can tolerate a range of light conditions but keep it away from prolonged periods of direct afternoon light (when the sun is at its hottest). This will only burn its leaves and lead to heartbreak!
For best growth, choose a bright spot in your home that receives lots of indirect light. East-facing windowsills are ideal.
Water
If you feel the leaves of your Raindrop Peperomia, you’ll notice that they are thicker than many other houseplants like Monstera and Pothos.
Many Peperomias have succulent-like qualities, allowing them to endure dry spells.
Water your Peperomia Polybotrya only when the topsoil feels dry to the touch. This is a plant that does not like to be overwatered. So, if in doubt, err on the side of underwatering.
Yellow leaves and soft, droopy stems typically signal that your plant is overwatered. (Check out our guide on how to save an overwatered plant.)
On the other hand, curling leaves and cakey soil indicate your plant needs a drink, badly!
Humidity
Humidity is where people may get a bit confused. While your plant has succulent-like qualities, it is not a succulent that is native to a dry desert.
Instead, its native environment is in the tropical rainforest, where humidity is sky-high.
Ideally, aim for 60-90% humidity. It can tolerate average indoor humidity but give it a moisture boost and it’ll reward you with faster growth and lusher leaves.
Check out our favorite ways to increase humidity here.
Temperature
Your Peperomia Polybotrya loves mild indoor temperatures. Keep it within 65 – 80 degrees F (18 – 27 degrees C) for your plant to be happy.
Needless to say, your plant is not cold-hardy. They don’t love the frost (remember, they come from the tropics!). Keep this one in a stable and warm environment.
Flowering
Flowers of the Peperomia Polybotrya are… different. They don’t produce showy flowers like Hoyas.
Here they are! Creamish green spikes is the best way I can describe them but… you can see them for yourself!
Growth
When fully grown, expect your plant to be around 12-15 inches (30-38cm) tall. Pretty compact 🙂 They are a relatively slow-growing bushy perennial.
Soil or Growing Medium
Because your plant doesn’t like to be overwatered, use a light soil that is well-draining. For best growth, we like to mix:
- 1 part of Hoffman’s cactus and succulent soil mix;
- 1 part perlite or pumice
Alternatively, you can just 100% African Violent potting mix.
Fertilizer
This plant is a light feeder, so while a small nutritional boost does wonders, be sure not to overdo it.
Apply a high-quality liquid fertilizer once a month only during the active growing season, at half strength. This one we’ve linked to is our favorite – it is gentle (urea-free) and nutritionally complete.
Repotting
Like many small plants, the Raindrop Peperomia likes a being a bit snug in its pot. Repot when you see roots peeking out from the drainage hole. This is approximately once every 2-3 years.
Repotting is done best in Spring.
Toxicity
Rejoice – your Raindrop Peperomia is not toxic to animals and humans. All parts of the plant, including its stem, leaves, and roots, are non-toxic.
Propagation
Propagating your Raindrop Peperomia is easy. Do this in Spring.
Propagation through stem cuttings and leaf cuttings have high rates of success.
Water Propagation, using Stem Cuttings
- Identify a part of the stem that is around 4 inches long, has a couple of leaves, and at least two nodes (the knobby part from which new growth will emerge!)
- Using clean garden shears, cut just below the node.
- Remove any leaves from the bottom half of the stem cutting (as this will be submerged in water).
- Place the stem cutting in a jar filled with room temperature water. You should have at least one node below the surface of the water.
- Place the jar in a warm location, where there is plenty of bright but indirect light. But do avoid direct afternoon sunlight.
- Change out the water every few days to prevent the build-up of fungi and murky water.
- In 2-3 weeks, you should see some new roots forming.
- Once the roots reach about 3 inches long, you can replant your new plant in a well-draining potting mix in its permanent pot.
- Treat as you would any other Raindrop Peperomia!
Soil Propagation, using Stem Cuttings
Alternatively, you can propagate your stem cuttings directly into a moistened potting mix, rather than using a water jar as an intermediate step. In this case, follow steps 1-3 above, then plant the cuttings into it’s permanent pot, making sure no leaves are buried under the soil line.
Keep the soil lightly moistened. After 10 weeks, give your plant a very gentle tug. A slight resistance shows that roots have been established. 🙂
Propagation through Leaf Cuttings
Another special way to propagate these plants is through the leaves themselves! We think it’s as easy as stem cuttings.
- Examine your healthy plant, and remove a couple of leaves. LEAVES only; you don’t need to petiole (small thin stem holding up the leaf).
- Using clean garden shears, cut the leaf in half, across the center of the leaf. A clean horizontal or vertical cut. (TRUST us!)
- Place the cut leaves, with the cut side down, into a small container with moist potting mix.
- Place the pot in a warm spot, preferably with a humidifier beside it set at 80%. Alternatively, you can use a clear plastic bag with holes and lightly secure it over the pot.
- Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. If using a plastic bag, remove it daily for an hour or two for fresh air.
- In about 10 weeks, you’ll notice new roots from the leaves and baby leaves popping up.
- When the new baby plants reach a few inches tall, you can take the old cut leaf off (they should come off quite easily). Though, if you leave it there that’s ok too.
- Now, replant your new baby plant in its permanent pot. You may choose to put each cutting into a different pot or combine them in a bigger pot.
- Treat as you would any other Raindrop Peperomia.
Pruning
Your Raindrop Peperomia doesn’t need much pruning.
Only when you spot damaged leaves or leggy stems is it necessary to prune. Use sharp, sterilized shears (we use 70% isopropyl solution), and cut ABOVE the node.
Common Pests
Your Raindrop Peperomia is rather pest-resistant. That said, the most common pests that may attack your Peperomia are mealybugs and spider mites.
- Mealybugs – appear like bits of white cotton balls, commonly found around new growth and hard-to-reach spots.
- Spider mites – fine webbing on leaf undersides is a tell-tale sign that you have an infestation.
To treat both infestations, quarantine your plant away from all other healthy houseplants. (These bugs go from one plant to another!)
Then, apply a neem oil solution – we have a step-by-step guide on how to do so.
Troubleshooting
Curling Leaves
Curling leaves could signal a mealybug or spider mite infestation. Another possibility is calcium deficiency from overwatering, a known cause of curling leaves in many Peperomias.
Overwatering in acidic potting soils reduces the availability of calcium in the soil. This means your plant can’t absorb as much calcium.
Leggy Growth
Insufficient sunlight causes long, leggy growth. Relocate your plant to a sunnier spot, but one that is still away from direct light.
Bumps on Leaves
Bumps on Raindrop Peperomia leaves are typically due to edema.
First, the good news. Edema isn’t a bacteria or fungi, so it cannot be transmitted from plant to plant. It is a condition whereby the plant takes in water quicker than it can use it, causing cells in the leaves to literally burst, causing bumps or “blisters” on the leaves.
Though any plant can suffer from edema, Peperomias are particularly susceptible. To remedy this, only water your plant when the topsoil is dry!
Leaf Drop
The most common cause of peperomia leaves falling off is overwatering.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Raindrop Peperomias safe for cats and dogs?
Yes. Peperomias, including your Raindrop Peperomia, are non-toxic to animals and children.
Similar Plants and Varieties
Pilea Peperomioides, the Pancake Plant
Hailing from the Pilea genus, a look-alike to the Raindrop Peperomia is the Pilea Peperomioides, the Pancake Plant.
Though they have similar round leaves, you can differentiate between the two by looking at the leaf tips. Raindrop Peperomias have pointy tips like a raindrop, while Pileas have perfectly round, Pancake-shaped leaves.
Other Peperomias we Love
- Peperomia Ginny
- Peperomia Albovittata, also known as the Peacock Peperomia
- Peperomia Frost
- Peperomia Napoli Nights, a Peperomia Frost look-alike but with darker green leaves.
- Peperomia Obtusifolia
- String of Turtles, Peperomia Prostrata
- Watermelon Peperomia (Peperomia Argyreia) – a compact upright plant with leaves that resemble uncut watermelons 🙂
Wrapping Up
The Raindrop Peperomia is a beautiful houseplant that is relatively easy to care for. Just don’t overwater it. Mimic its tropical native environment by providing it:
- Warm, stable indoor temperatures.
- High humidity, 60-90% is ideal.
- Avoid overwatering. Water only when topsoil is dry.
- Give it a well-draining potting mix.
- Fertilize lightly with a liquid, urea-free fertilizer during active growing months.
- Propagate through stem or leaf cuttings.
If you love the Raindrop Peperomia, check out the Peperomia Ginny next!
Deborah is a plant enthusiast and founder of Gardening Collective.